Rough against rough

Welcome to this Camino Blog. If you are new it might be best to start with the introduction. Otherwise, carry on.

Location: Rabanal

Distance: 11.2km – 536.7km total. Short day. A bit of recovery required and appropriate stopping points was a bit tricky to sort in the next bit.

Weather: Fine and warm.

Terrain: Slightly uphill, mostly on track. A bit like the desert road.

Physical condition:Okay.

Accommodation: We arrived early to queue for  british run alburgue. Good reports, but doesn’t open till 2pm. The whole town looks nice so if the worst comes to the worst we should be able to find somewhere. Update- we are in and it seems cute.

Other: So yesterday’s accommodation takes the prize for the worst to date. The main issue was that the beds creaked whenever you moved and, since there were so many, they made a cacophony of noise all night. Add in a significant snorer and you had the makings of a great night. Oh well, you win some and lose some.

SB 2 – God and the story are way bigger than you

• You are beyond my comprehension or control

• I am God not human

27 years ago I started to read books for enjoyment largely due to the discovery of The Belgariad, a slightly trashy, but very popular fantasy series. (As a slight aside, owning the books was one of the first things Deb’s and I realised that we had in common).

It sounds a bit silly, but the main plot is that the good guy needs to kill the bad God. Intertwined in this is a character who is aware that if they lose she will have to be the God’s wife (honestly, who comes up with this stuff!). Anyway, at one point she is explaining this to one of the other characters and had this to say about interacting with a God.

…….

‘If [we lose]?’ …. ‘Then Torak (the bad God) will come to claim his bride, and there will be no power on earth sufficient to stop him.’

‘I would sooner die,’ …

‘So would I,…, but that option may not be open to me. Torak’s will is so much stronger than mine that he may be able to take from me the ability or even the desire to will myself out of existence. If it should happen, it may very well be that I’ll be deliriously happy to be his chosen and beloved – but deep inside, I think that a part of me will be screaming and will continue to scream in horror down through all the endless centuries to the very end of days.’

……

Tacky as this is, it helps illustrate what we are dealing with here. The belief that there is a God leads to some hard truths about the capability of that God. Unless they will it, we are not dealing with a being at a similar level to us. They could easily just overwhelm us and we would largely be helpless.

There are appropriate responses. Awe, worship, humility……

Pictures

Lots of crosses weaved into the fence.

Lots and lots of people on the track this morning. This is coming into the town we are staying. Not sure if this is because of when/where we left from or the fact the track will get significantly busier as we get closer to Santiago.

Que for the alburgue

Welcome to this Camino Blog. If you are new it might be best to start with the introduction. Otherwise, carry on.

Location: Santa Catalina de Somoza

Distance: 23.5km – 525.5km total. Over 2/3rds of the way. 

Weather: Fine and warm.

Terrain: So we have left the flat meseta and are back to the hilly parts. We are heading to the highest part of the track.

Physical condition:Okay but could do with a bit more sleep.

Accommodation: Just a standard alburgue. Quite packed in but it will do.

Other: Dinner last night was nice. Met a Belgian guy who was walking over the Pyrenees a couple of days after us, a rough start as the video hopefully shows. Apparently there was no accommodation when he got to Roncesvalles either. Very tough way to start the Camino! All in all I think we have been extremely fortunate with the weather.

Round 3. So unbelievably I am at the third time around with my sacramental beliefs. Other than the re phrasing I did not have much to add to them in the second round. As indicated this was probably a reflection of being on the Camino. In Camino years it was like being in middle age and it was quite a dry period thought wise. 

Apparently, in the third part I am supposed to reach some form of spiritual enlightenment, however it appears to be delayed.

So, at this point the only option is to do the same thing again. However, there is a chance that I might mix them up a bit if it seems appropriate.

In some cases I was not that happy with my phrasing so I will look at that as well.

SB 1 – There is a God

-You Are

-I Am

I am still struck by how much this single statement dictates what path you follow.

Pictures

Dinner last night

Inside a Gaudi church

Bike race

Accompanying supporters with large flags and a statue of Mary and Jesus tagging along. Distinct feeling that I am missing some cultural thing here.

Apparently they found these abandoned when crossing the Pyrenees and decided to bring them along.

Video of Pyrenees crossing a couple of days after us.

Welcome to this Camino Blog. If you are new it might be best to start with the introduction. Otherwise, carry on.

Location: Villares de Orbigo

Distance: 24km – 502km total.

Weather: Fine and warm.

Terrain: Most of the day we walked next to the motorway so not particularly inspiring. However, ended in some nice towns.

Physical condition:Okay.  

Accommodation: Another recommended albergue. When we were arrived we were informed by other guests (who presumably have walked this before) that this was the best place to stay on the Camino. A high bar!

Other: Nothing else to report

SB 12: Everything will be made new

• You will make everything new

• I will make everything new

Pictures

Typical view today

Old Roman bridge. 

Welcome to this Camino Blog. If you are new it might be best to start with the introduction. Otherwise, carry on.

Location: Valverde

Distance: 11.9km – 478km total. Short day as we spent the morning in Leon looking around.

Weather: Fine and warm.

Terrain: Walking out of Leon though city and then next to motorway

Physical condition:Okay.  

Accommodation: Only just out of Leon so actually​ right next to the motorway. Looks okay though.

Other: So took my phone to get a new screen. All done in two hours and the only issue is that it is now a different colour. Praise Jesus, it’s a miracle. Nothing like having a Visa card. Next trick will be to see what insurance thinks about this.

By the way,Leon cathedral is worth a visit. Very impressive inside,  especially the stained glass. One of those occasions when the audio guide is actually a big help.

For the record the Parador was also great.

SB 11 – Pretense is a sign of acceptance

• I will pretend at being like you because I want to be like you.

• I like it when you pretend to be like me.

Pictures: (I have added a couple of shots a few days back as well)

What an IT hero. Let that be a lesson to us all. There are more things in life than being good at relationships and sharing your feelings. 

Here is a smaller video of our time with the singing nuns a few days back

Welcome to this Camino Blog. If you are new it might be best to start with the introduction. Otherwise, carry on.

Location: Bercianos

Distance: 26.9km – 421.3km total. So we passed through the official halfway town today. Totally not true.

Weather: Fine and warm.

Terrain: Reasonably flat. Spent 8km walking beside a very straight road.

Physical condition:Okay.  

Accommodation: Pre booked due to distance. Quiet town, but kinda cute place.

Other: Can’t think of anything at the mo.

SB 8 – God desired to pay the cost for me (and you)

• God desires me

• I desire you

Pictures

First time I have seen these on the walk

Old Roman bridge

Just like NZ

Welcome to this Camino Blog. If you are new it might be best to start with the introduction. Otherwise, carry on.

Location: Ledigos

Distance: 23.4km – 394.4km total. Okay let’s talk measurements. Confusingly there are multiple figures of how long this walk is. Our guide book has it as 776.2km, others as much as 804km. Turns out some use the “flat” ( not sure the actual term here) distance, while others take into account the profile, and also the track has changed over the years. Our guide book uses the former. Either way we are now past half way! Unbelievable! We have been walking for ages.

Weather: Fine and warming up.

Terrain: Right into the meseta now. Flat and kinda dull.

Physical condition:Okay.  

Accommodation: Another recommendation from Deb’s various sources. This place is sweet. We pre booked and have our own room etc etc. After the significant snorer last night this is a relief. Just an all round nice place. Menu looking good as well.

Other: The singing nuns ended up being not just being a very nice vespers but also a group “worship” session/sing-along with all the other  people in the alburge. People asked to sing their own songs and say why they are doing the walk. Quite interesting.

Crystal is back. Thought we had left her for the last time back at a place you can sleep in teepees. However, she has realised that her interest in hippy places is a false interest and she actually likes nice places. She ended up catching us up again today. 

Continuing on with the theme of the Camino being a life in miniature. Give or take a day or two, in Camino days I am now my actual age. No wonder it is a bit dull. Will be interesting to see what comes up 😀.

SB 7 – The antidote was costly

• Being the antidote was costly for you.

• This fix was costly for me.

Pictures 

Sing-along last night

Video of sing-along (actually that won’t work, too big. Another time. Here is another​ pic instead)

Sculpture this morning

Flat walk today. Getting a bit weary of wheat fields to be honest. Apparently this area is the bread basket of Spain so much more to come.

Could have done it this way

Welcome to this Camino Blog. If you are new it might be best to start with the introduction. Otherwise, carry on.

Location: Carrion de los ​Condes

Distance: 15.9km – 371.1km total. Plus 1km for scenic route. Short day because next stop is 17km away. Not really an option.

Weather: A bit variable.

Terrain: Took the scenic route for the first half next to the river. For the second half the track follows next to road.

Physical condition: Okay.  Hip gave a bit of grief last night so was a bit concerned how today would go.  However, went okay. I think I will just have to manage it for the rest of the walk.

Accommodation: Another recommendation from Deb’s various sources. It’s a monastery which doesn’t take bookings. 52 beds and we got 13 and 14,  both top bunks. I haven’t had to do that to date so should be interesting  Apparently this place is renowned for the nuns singing so will try and catch that tonight.

Other: So was reading an article yesterday about a guy who walks pilgrimages for others for a price. Apparently there is a flat fee for getting the book (Compostela) filled​ with stamps which he will then send to you as proof of your devotion. Optional add-ons include him doing the last 400m on his knees. Their is clearly a business opportunity here :-).  Even after 500 years, selling indulgences is alive and well.

SB 6: Creation was infected, but the antidote has been administered

• Your Creation was infected, but you have given yourself as the antidote.

• My Creation was infected, but I have given myself as the antidote.  

Pictures

Indicative of leaving time

The path today

Waiting for alburgue to open.

For those interested, this is one of the daily plans with elevations. On this plan we are at day 17 of 34. We are loosly following another one that takes 33 days. We have a particularly flat bit coming up which is renown for driving people mad.

Welcome to this Camino Blog. If you are new it might be best to start with the introduction. Otherwise, carry on.

Location: Poblacion de Campos​

Distance: 28.3km – 355.2km total. Felt like a long day today.

Weather: Overcast and quite cold with wind. Given the distance it was better than blazing sun. For the record, a pilgrim who has done this a few times over the last 10 years reckons this is the coldest year to date.

Terrain: Gravel path for most. Over a reasonable hill this morning. Spent a bit of time following a canal.

Physical condition:Okay.  Hip gave a bit of grief today but hopefully will wear off.

Accommodation: Another recommendation from Deb’s various sources. Another 4km on from usual stop, hence the big distance, but the promise of a chef cooked meal tonight was hard to resist. High hopes. The albergue is new and is going the extra mile to attract guests. Having to work to attract customers often leads to good things. So far so good, at the bar and free lobster, escargot and artichokes have arrived!

Other: Can’t quite believe that we are still not halfway.

SB 5: God became human (so we have a good idea of what that looks like)

• You became human, like me

• I became human

Pictures

Albergue last night

Walk up hill this morning.

The other side

Canal

Crazy person