Rough against rough

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Location: Arzua

Distance: 26.4km – 736.6km total. For the record we only have 39.6km to go. We will do that over the next two days.

Weather: Misty start so very suitable for humming Brothers in Arms. Cleared up and ended as a nice fine day. Thankfully not too hot.

Terrain: Similar to yesterday. Pretty easy walking through farms etc.

Physical condition:Okay.  

Accommodation: Quite a busy wee town with hotel like albergues. Seems like a nice place and apparently the food is great.

Other: Some people have asked where Chrystal is at the moment. We parted ways about a week ago and last time we heard she was in front of us a bit. We are hoping to meet up before the end – perhaps even today.

SB 11 – Pretense is a sign of acceptance

-I will pretend at being like you because I want to be like you.

-I like it when you pretend to be like me.

I have been trying to think about how we come to the realisation of what pretence looks like. A true view of “God is Love” is clearly a work in progress or we would never have bothered with the divine right of kings and women would have had the vote for ages. 

There are probably more but two things are coming to mind

1. Dreaming/Imagining- it is probably a good idea to think about what the ideal might look like and how it differs from now.
2. Arguments- we will get a much better idea of what good looks like if we can develop frameworks for sharing ideas with each other. 

I am not sure if this is relevant or simply illustrative, but I was reading a piece recently where someone was wondering what things we are doing now which will not be acceptable in 100-200 years time. He came up with eating animals. Interesting, and he is probably right.

Pictures: 

Some people get right into this Camino thing (spot the large concha shell)

A bit of a break

By far an away the biggest discussion point on the Camino is whether it is best to book accomodation or assume that “the Camino will provide ”

There is certainly a wish that you could do this without booking and just stop and get accomodation when you feel like it. There is also the strong feeling that this is how you are supposed to do this (even here guilt is alive and well!). However, this is coming up against the stats of the number of people walking as shown in the following image. 

(An interesting side note, these numbers might look high but they are actually less than when the Camino was at its highest in the Middle Ages)

Now the market is coming to the party but the coverage is a bit patchy and stories abound of people missing out on a bed and having to take taxis on a regular basis. 
It would seem that you can have two out of the following  three things

• A relaxed walk
• Leave late (ie at 8am)
• Not book

Choose which two you want. 

Ideally we would not have booked, however we have found that for us it is necessary. 

Welcome to this Camino Blog. If you are new it might be best to start with the introduction. Otherwise, carry on
Location: San Xulian

Distance: 20.4km – 711.4km total. 

Weather: overcast but stayed fine

Terrain: Another easy walking day by farms and on tracks next to the road.

Physical condition:Okay.  

Accommodation: So this looks like a nice place (another guest declared that this was the cleanest place they had stayed which is saying something) but the guy running it is one of those frustratingly nice, but hopelessly inefficient type of people. The German within me is getting grumpy.

Other: So an interesting dynamic has emerged. Some pilgrims are not finishing their walk at Santiago but carrying on another 100km or so to Finisteria. At the time this walk started this was literally the end of the world. 

I am finding that as we get closer to the end of our walk both of us are starting to check out and our thoughts are moving on to the next part of the trip. If we had been carrying on then this part would most likely have been delayed until the Finisteria leg. Psychologically this may have been a better way to end. Oh well, another time.

SB 10: There is nothing you have done, are doing, or will do that will deserve this. It is simply given! All you can do is accept.

-There is nothing I can do to deserve this. All I can do is accept.

Pictures 

Not many photo opportunities today so I thought you might like to see a sticker chart for grown ups. This is what we have to fill in to get our certificate at the end. From here on we have to get at least two a day.

Welcome to this Camino Blog. If you are new it might be best to start with the introduction. Otherwise, carry on.
Location: Gonzar 
Distance: 26.3km – 691km total. 

Weather: cloudy and cool with some rain near the end of the day.

Terrain: pretty easy walking today though farm land on formed path.

Physical condition:Okay.  

Accommodation: looks like a reasonably nice albergue.

Other: So Deborah wants me to inform everyone that being a woman sucks when you have to answer the call of nature in nature and nature also includes significant quantities of a stinging nettle. (Note: we have spotted one public toilet to date and you had to pay for that). I on the other hand want to say that it’s good to be a guy.

SB 9: You are, and are being transformed into, a child of God. You have almost zero influence over this.

– I am Gods son. I am growing up in Gods presence 

– You are my son. Grow knowing that I will take care of you.

Pictures

Pretty significant milestone 

Welcome to this Camino Blog. If you are new it might be best to start with the introduction. Otherwise, carry on.

Location: Barbedelo

Distance: 18.4km – 664.7km total. 

Weather: cloudy and cool, however was supposed to rain so we dodged a bullet again. Absolutely bucketed down just after arriving so was very pleased not to be out in that.

Terrain: Today would rank in the top 5 scenery days to date. Just a really pleasant walk through lovely valley full with green bush. 

Physical condition:Okay.  

Accommodation: Nice hostel/hotel. It even has a pool but I think we might pass given the weather. 

Other: The main event for the day was going through Sarria. This place is important as it is the shortest distance you can walk and still get a certificate for doing the Camino (presumably there is something about having you sins forgiven as well). Consequently, heaps of Spanish people start here and things get really crowded. Apparently it’s almost a rolling start every morning like a running race, hence why we are staying a bit further on.

Our guidebook helpfully added that the true pilgrim needs to avoid being irritated and to cultivate a sense a graciousness to these interlopers. Good luck with that!

SB 8 – God desired to pay the cost for me (and you)

God desires me

I desire you

Reflective song for the day

Pictures:

Monastery yesterday 

Another statue

Lunch today

The LOTR is even on the Camino

Decided to wait for this

I wonder if in 2000 years people will be amazed at what we built like we are with the romans?

Welcome to this Camino Blog. If you are new it might be best to start with the introduction. Otherwise, carry on.

Location: Samos

Distance: 19.3 km, 657.2 tot. Things might get a bit confusing for a bit as we have gone off the main route today. The total distance should return to normal tomorrow.

Weather: overcast but fine

Terrain: Very pretty day today. The first half was walking down yesterday’s hill. Lots of mist filled valleys. The second half was walking down a very lush gorge reminiscent of NZ.

Physical condition: Okay other than a sore shin which I am hoping will clear by tomorrow.

Accomodation: Staying in a town with a large monestry, but I decided that I was a bit over alburgues so booked a place instead. Was quite relieved as reports from others walking out, and not staying, was that it was very basic. Nice village with a good vibe though.

Other: So one of the downsides of my phone not working is that my camera is out of action. This is a shame as yesterday I got a shot of a ruined castle on a hill above the track. This was of particular interest as on day 3 we met Attilla the Hungarian who informed us that when he walked the Camino 4 years ago he had a vision that he was to rebuild a castle along the way – and this was the one! Unfortunately Attilla was having to walk the Camino again because in the interviening four years no guidance was provided on how to sucure the 3 million euro he estimated to do the work. Having then to sit through the video of his plans I really didn’t have the heart to tell him that adding an extra 0 or two to the costs would probably be necessary. 

More experienced Camino walkers have informed us that visions of these kind are a regular occurrence on the way.  

SB 7 – The antidote was costly

Being the antidote was costly for you.

This fix was costly for me

Pictures:

Dinner last night . Debs has typically decided that Galicia is a great place based on this meal winning the top peligrino meal to date.

Walking down the valley 

The monestry

Welcome to this Camino Blog. If you are new it might be best to start with the introduction. Otherwise, carry on.

Location: Ambasmestas

Distance: Approximately 22km – 619.1km total.

Weather: It was supposed to be another hot day so we left a bit early to avoid the heat as much as possible. Ended up being okay with a touch of rain.

Terrain: So today the main track follows a road through a gorge. However, we took the alternative high road for half of it. Considerably steeper than expected but better than the other option.

Physical condition:Okay.

Accommodation: Another recommended albergue in a relatively isolated place. Run by a couple of Russians and the menu features trout. The sign at the outside also proudly declares that no toast is served for breakfasts (basically breakfast in Spain) but that they do do pancakes, bacon and eggs! All good

Other: So one of the interesting things about doing this walk is finding out what people know about NZ. Although on a per population basis we are highly represented, globally there are not many of us.

The following is the sum total of what people typically know

1. NZ is a long way away. This is by far and away the main thing people know. For those who are worried about be overrun by immigrants or tourists from Europe, well you can sleep well at night. It seems that more than 8 hours in a plane is out of the question. You actually have to hand it to the tourism board that they get so many here.  

2. It is very beautiful and green and they would love to come. However, #1 trump’s this.

3. The Lord of the Rings. This must have been the best advertising spend ever for the tourism board. It been years!

4. The All Blacks

5. Kiwis – as in the fruit rather than the bird.

That is about it. Seriously! I have just checked with a German sitting next to me.

SB 5: God became human (so we have a good idea of what that looks like)

• You became human, like me

• I became human

Pictures:

Early start this morning

Coming up out of town

We did this to ourselves!

Apparently these Icebreaker socks are guaranteed for life. We shall see. 

Welcome to this Camino Blog. If you are new it might be best to start with the introduction. Otherwise, carry on.

Location: Pieros

Distance: 24.9km – 587.1km total.

Weather: The hottest day today. Topped 30oC at times. A bit overwhelming near the end of the day.

Terrain: Mostly walking through the suburbs of a reasonably large town/city. Got a bit nicer near the end of the day.

Physical condition:Okay.

Accommodation: Another recommended alburgue. A hippy kinda place.

Other: let’s talk hippy places. Normally they have some identifiable features: vegetarian food, yoga, rainbows on their signs drawn in chalk etc etc. They also tend not to be good business people so you are best to stay in them as early as possible after they open as after a few years they run out of money and enthusiasm and their quality drops. However, if you do get in early then you can take advantage of their large commitment to their dream. This one looks like it could be quite good and we are having a communal vegetarian meal tonight.

Also, met a youngish guy today who has walked from Holland – on 200euro! He has dropped 12kg but looks like he will make it.

SB 4: God is Love

-You are Love

-I am Love

Pictures:

Castle from today

A very welcome stop

Welcome to this Camino Blog. If you are new it might be best to start with the introduction. Otherwise, carry on.

Location: Molinaseca

Distance: 25.6km – 562.2km total. With the up and down today it was actually 3km longer than this

Weather: Fine and warm, then quite hot. Frankly, we couldn’t have had it much better for today. It would be an awful day if it was raining or windy.

Terrain: Highest point on the track today. Going up was nice, but coming down had some pretty rough terrain. As difficult as we have had it to date.

Physical condition:Okay.

Accommodation: We pre booked a hotel. Seems nice. The town looks nice as well. It is situated by a river which was accessible for sitting with your feet in. Since it was straight off the mountain it was pretty chilly but quite refreshing.

Other: Yesterday’s place was nice. Extremely friendly American volunteers at the end of a two week stint. Not sure if the fact it felt friendly had quite a lot to do with them speaking english.

SB 3 – God is Trinity

-You are three

-We are three

So the first time I can remember being fully cognizant​ of the trinity was reading The Secret Diary of Adrian Plass as a kid. One of the characters, Leonard, was tasked with doing a children’s talk on it at church. Leonard being Leonard things went badly. A wee chuckle about that.

On another note. One commenter asked if adding a SB around being created “for God’s pleasure” would be worth adding​. I bring this up because often the Trinity is linked to the idea that God is in a self contained relationship with themselves. Perhaps some SB like this is required as you wonder why he bothered creating us if God was all sorted already.

Pictures:

We came from here.

This is quite a significant cross. You are supposed to bring a stone with you on the Camino, and this is where you leave it. I had brought one from the sea of Galilee! Once again the significance was a bit lost of me (not helped by the tour bus just out of shot!)

However, some obviously found the experience quite overwhelming. Lots of feelings being shared. One pilgrim had been walking to this point in stages for 10 years from Germany! She made a special trip to this.

The highest point on the walk. Special detour to get here.

Where we are going. On a clear day you might be able to see Santiago.

The town we are in.